Kaifeng in images

The Times published my photo of Guo Yan’s hand on her mezuzah, but there’s a lot more where that came from. A selection, from Kaifeng:

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Embers


The Times publishes my Jewspotting effort from Kaifeng, China today. This is a story that, for being in Travel, left a lot of topics on the cutting-room floor: identity, migration, loss and the motivations behind religion. Themes to come back to.

China’s Ancient Jewish Enclave

THROUGH a locked door in the coal-darkened boiler room of No. 1 Hospital of Traditional Chinese Medicine in Kaifeng, there’s a well lined with Ming Dynasty bricks. It’s just a few yards deep and still holds water. Guo Yan, 29, an eager, bespectacled native of this Chinese city on the flood plains of the Yellow River about 600 miles south of Beijing, led me to it one recent Friday afternoon, past the doormen accustomed to her visits.

The well is all that’s left of the Temple of Purity and Truth, a synagogue that once stood on the site. The heritage it represents brings a trickle of travelers to see one of the more unusual aspects of this country: China, too, had its Jews.

Read the rest here.

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Some seriously retro Zionism

In Mondoweiss, the Nation’s host for debate on the Middle East, there’s a perplexing misreading of my Sino-Israeli piece in Tablet. Apparently, I’ve engaged in “some seriously retro Zionism,” which is news to me.

In a tin-eared reading of all things ironic, Kiera Feldman bizarrely ignores both how preposterous and ridiculous are portrayed ties between Israel and China. But, for the sake of open discussion, if you like, take a look at what she says and decide for yourself. Then again, if a reader can take at face value that a building described as a “high-backed snail followed by a slime trail” could one day become Shanghai’s mini-Eiffel Tower, and interpret that as glorification, then, sure, why not also assume that Hu Jintao and “white-haired” Shimon Peres really are best buds.

Or, just read it for a laugh, to see, in case you missed it, how I’ve produced “vintage Israeli state-building mythology” and somehow managed to ignore Chinese people while in China for 50 days (see below).

Surprisingly, many of the comments are more measured, and demonstrate far greater understanding of Sino-Israeli relationships, then the reply itself.

At any rate, a nice reminder that irony might be too subtle a tool for those screaming their entrenched views into the already overloud “war of ideas in the Middle East.”

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The flower of Sino-Israeli friendship


The first of several dispatches to come out of this trip. This one is in Tablet Magazine.

Kosher Chinese

The beit knesset—the meeting place—is Haya’s Mediterranean Cuisine, an Israeli restaurant in Shanghai’s Zhuanqiao district. Forty-odd Shanghai-based businessmen and women, members of the the Israeli Chamber of Commerce in Shanghai, are smoking like Chinese and drinking espresso like natives of Tel Aviv. Chocolates, made by an Israeli living in Luxemburg, in town for China’s first Salon du Chocolat, are said to be on their way. Designer glasses and shaved heads surround the tables.

Jackie Eldan, Israel’s consul general in Shanghai, in a grey suit and looking tired with a five o’clock shadow, is standing in front of a rendering, projected on a wall, of Haim Dotan Architects’ Israel Pavilion for Shanghai’s World Expo 2010, less than 100 days from opening. He is telling the group, a bit mischievously and in English, that the modernist pavilion—it looks a bit like a high-backed snail followed by a slime trail—exceeds the strict height limitations by four meters, making it the second-tallest national building on the grounds.

“Our placement is good,” Eldan says. “Right next to the Chinese Pavilion,” which looks like a massive inverted pyramid, colored in an auspicious shade of red, the color of prosperity. “But we still look like a grain of rice that fell out of that big bowl.”

Read the rest here.

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Dark City

Bo Xilai, party secretary of the western city of Chongqing, listens to a reporter's question during a news conference after a Chongqing delegation meeting of the National People's Congress at the Great Hall of the People in Beijing, Saturday, March 6, 2010. Bo is the rare official in China with a strong public personality, which could help him with media and popular attention but might not help him within the upper levels of the conservative, ruling Communist Party. (AP Photo/Andy Wong)

Time magazine chimes in on Chongqing and Bo Xilai, both pictured here in Bo’s noted 90 minute press conference yesterday. The irony in the AP shot is that the tip of downtown Chongqing just behind Bo’s head was developed by one of the gangsters who went on trial. Time’s longish review of the case –by Austin Ramzy in Beijing (and Chengcheng Jiang, actually there)– is worth a read for some broad backstory. An excerpt:

Chongqing hasn’t had this much attention since it was the temporary capital of China during World War II. Looming on the broad banks of the Yangtze River, it is sometimes called the biggest city in the world; half its population of 28 million lives in a huge swath of countryside that was carved out of neighboring Sichuan when the city was given provincial-level status in 1997. Like much of the rest of China, Chongqing is booming, but, along with the economy, crime has risen, especially extortion and racketeering. Locals say gangs take a big cut of everything from transport to construction. The recent crackdown has made Chongqing’s criminal woes a national subject, but the reality is that its problems are commonplace. Take a stroll through practically any city in China and you can see examples of the protective network between organized crime and law enforcement. Prostitution and illegal gambling dens are ubiquitous, sometimes just a short distance away from police stations. “Everywhere you go it is pretty much the same,” says Ko-lin Chin, a professor at Rutgers University, Newark, who is an expert on Chinese gangs.

Elsewhere, Bo Xilai’s ability to draw attention continues to get attention of its own. Yesterday, his presence at the party conference garnered no less than 122 article hits on Google News, with the UK’s Independent calling him “Mr. Cool,” “tall, dapper” and “looking presidential,” while the AP has him showing off a “rare public trait” in China: charm. The NY-based Epoch Times is less impressed, noting that an incomplete attack on corruption only hardens the corruption by pushing it further underground. I predict: Bo won’t flare out.

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History repeating

China: “Never has so vast a population undergone so great an intellectual revolution in so short a time.” Author: Geil. Year: 1910.

The New York Times, doing the 1910 equivalent of tweeting a conference, hashtags #china, #geil. View a pdf, more comfortable for reading, here.

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Chin Chon Chow

Thanks to Simon for the perfect transition from China to Colombia, where I’m headed next.

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Flight


Xiao Yu and Da Yu sportin’ hand-tailored duds. A long way from Tibet to wherever this is. And a long way for me today on the plane, getting back to New York just 2 hours after I leave Shanghai, the world spinning below.

Stay tuned for more soon. A last meal (and celebratory baijiu) at Di Shui Dong, after the jump.

Read on, young grasshopper »

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Chengdu-nothing


Olympic skater Zhou Yang prepares before winning gold in the 1500 m short track. We recover from our nine days in Sichuan and Tibet. Chengdu is all wide new boulevards and the New China. In that context, the TV has its appeal

Read on, young grasshopper »

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Danba, Part 2

And so the day went: bright, dry light; Tibetan scenes of terraced villages, yak-horned houses, prayer flags and Buddha love; views of the valleys where the veneration towers of Sopo lean ever so slightly, piles of stones that say men have lived here in awe of something besides themselves.

(View best quality here.)

Read on, young grasshopper »

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